Running away: Malta has blue skies, cliffs and flat waterside finishes

Where to run

Malta has more formidable terrain than many small islands (just ask the Ottomans, or the Nazis) and laden with history and culture, as well as blue Mediterranean skies. But that makes it a great place to run.

Staying in the densely populated north-east will put you somewhere near a superb, natural, 10-mile (16km) coastal route: from the mighty new Renzo Piano-designed Valletta city gates and parliament building, it winds past the boats clanking charmingly in harbour outside the Royal Malta Yacht Club, while on the other side of the road, traditional Maltese enclosed balconies peer back at you in 100 different colours and as many states of maintenance, from fresh paint to photogenic decay.

Continue past busy seaside cafes and parks in the nightlife district of Paceville, and out to the quieter fringes of the Pembroke coast, where an eclectic heritage walking trail takes in wildlife spotting, two football stadiums and an army firing range en route to the Madliena watchtower, built in 1658 by the knights of St John, who guarded the island. That 10 miles could easily be trimmed down with a bit of judicious peninsula pruning by those who don’t mind a hilly shortcut.

Time and illness stopped me getting across to the more open west of the island, where a series of nine, lovely-looking walking routes has been established, measuring from about 5km (3 miles) to about 15k and packed with pretty hills, sandy beaches, baroque churches and glorious coastline such as the Dingli cliffs.

Where to race

Malta has developed a healthy racing scene – almost every month there is at least one open race, usually 5k or 10k, organised by one of the numerous local running clubs, with the bigger events in spring and late autumn, including the beautiful but brutally hilly half on Malta’s sister island Gozo, in April, and in November, the Zurrieq half and the intriguing three-day Malta International Challenge Marathon, which spreads the 26.2 miles over a long, hard weekend.

I was there in late February for the Malta half marathon, which starts just outside the fortified walls of the tranquil and lovely former capital, Mdina. It heads east for a mile, then spirals back on itself, all the while swooping gently downhill, the city walls and the towers of picturesque St Paul’s cathedral (the apostle supposedly suffered one of his numerous shipwrecks nearby) perched over your right shoulder.

It’s a good race to start fast – you drop 60m steadily over the first 3km before a short rise and a left turn points you towards the glittering waters and shiny hotels of the west coast. If you are going well, a quick start should not come back to bite you. It sheds its remaining 120m of altitude gently over the middle miles, with a short climb of around 800m from 15.2km onwards the only barrier to the last 5km and a flat waterside finish.

Where to stay

In bustling Paceville, inveterate fitness freaks will appreciate the Intercontinental, which, along with its five-star luxury and friendly staff, has one of the largest and best-equipped gyms on the island, as well as a beautiful spa and rooftop pool. Across the jaw-dropping Grand Harbour from Valletta, an apartment in the lovely narrow streets of the Three Cities area would be a less luxe but more tranquil alternative while staying close to the capital.

Where to eat

Wandering in a post-race daze along the coast, I was delighted to stumble into the open-air cafe section of the Compass Lounge, where there are fine burgers and ice-cold servings of a decent local lager, Cisk. For a real after-race treat it would be hard to beat the Waterbiscuit, where chef James Oakley makes glorious, Japanese-accented Mediterreanean food (quail glazed in teriyaki; meagre fish – that’s a name, not a description – marinated in miso; and an amazing confit belly of pork). I loved it, and would say so even if I didn’t – Oakley is also an experienced muay thai kickboxer.

• Travel provided by Air Malta. Accommodation by the Intercontinental, St George’s Bay. visitmalta.com for more information

Source: Read Full Article